While we’d pre-planned some of our Maui adventures, like the Road to Hana trip, we hadn’t pre-planned anything for Hilo and I’m really glad we didn’t. Each night, when they come to turn down your cabin, they deliver a newsletter to help you plan activities for the next day. Each newsletter outlines some of the specials available on board the ship (ie massages in the day spa, jewellery sales & the daily art auction). You also get a list of all the activities available on board the ship during the day such as – yes you guessed it shuffleboard J and cards, but also art and craft classes (like lei making), pool parties, special events and nightly entertainment. You can also find out what off ship tours are available and book them through the ship.
Unlike Maui where we had an overnight stay, we only had 9 hours in Hilo. When we looked at the list of tours one immediately jumped out at us, a trip to the top of Mauna Kea a dormant volcano that, at its peak, is 13,796 feet high (or 4.2km) and Hawaii’s highest mountain. Until you actually see Mauna Kea up close it’s hard to image how high that really is, but to help give you some idea Mt Lofty is 2,385 feet high (or 727m). That makes Mauna Kea nearly 6 times higher. What is even more interesting is that if you measure Mauna Kea from the ocean floor you can add another 15,000 feet!
We had an amazing tour guide called ‘Daniel’ (not his Hawaiian name) who used to have a recording contract with Sony (too long a story to tell here). We had been told to dress warmly as it snows on top of the mountain but here was Daniel in shorts and a t-shirt. That’s locals for you. Our first stop on the tour was a place called Rainbow Falls Lookout. Rainbow Falls is part of the Wailuku River, the longest river on the Big Island, which runs right through Hilo. There is also an amazing collection of Banyan Trees around this area. After we finished there we started up the mountain.
Rainbow Falls
Because of the height of Mauna Kea you are advised to make a number of stops along the way to help your body acclimatise to the change in atmosphere as you ascend. At 13,796 feet, atmospheric pressure is 60% what it is at sea level and it is common to get altitude sickness. Our first acclimatisation stop was at Kipuka Pu’u Huluhulu at 6,758 feet where we stopped for 15-20 minutes. Here we saw the first of three shrines to Wakea, the sky God, where it is customary for locals to say a chant and provide an offering (no not human sacrifices). We could also see at this stop evidence of historical lava flows as the molten lava travelled where and when it wanted and left an almost barren wasteland of volcanic rock behind. We were however surprised to see that some plants are so sturdy they will grow anywhere like the little fern in the photo below.
Our next acclimatization stop was at the Onizuka Visitor Information Station at 9,200 feet. According to my trusty Lonely Plant guide the visitor information station was named after Ellison Onizuka, a native of the Big Island, who was one of the astronauts who perished in the 1986 Challenger Space shuttle disaster. Here we saw the second of the three shrines for Wakea and also an interesting plant called the silversword that only grows at extreme altitudes. Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa (the second highest mountain in Hawaii) are the only two places in Hawaii where it grows. It takes around 50 years to flower and flowers only once in it’s life.
Journeying up Mauna Kea
We stayed at the station for around 45 minutes at which point our tour guide gave everyone the thumbs up to continue. If you are displaying any signs of altitude sickness at that point you are not allowed to proceed any further up the mountain. While our last journey was only 8 miles long we travelled around 4,000 feet up. Just before the summit we stopped at the first set of dome-shaped observatories (long-range space telescopes) that litter the top of the mountain. There are 13 in all belonging to a range of difference countries including Australia.
The view from Keck II Observatory
We were lucky enough to have a brief look through part of America’s Keck II Observatory. One of its purposes is to look for any space dangers such as meteors & asteroids another is to look for another planet capable of sustaining life. The work undertaken at these observatories is amazing. However, if, like me, you grew up learning that Move Very Easily Ma Just Said You Need Patience represents the order of our solar systems nine planets (Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Neptune & Pluto), then you too are probably devastated to know that Pluto was demoted from planet status when two new planets were identified (good going Keck II!)
The road doesn’t lead all the way to the summit but to the last of the observatories, which is almost at the top, but I’ve included a photo of the actual summit. When we got out of the tour bus there was a noticeable difference in the air. You felt very light as you walked around and could easily feel unstable and off-balance (don’t spin around too quickly). The air was also very dry and very cold. For someone like me, with Asthma, who struggles to breathe in humid air it was beautiful and crisp.
This is another one of those times where it is impossible to describe how breathtaking the views were so I hope my photos do it justice. For anyone that’s travelled by plane remember what it’s like when you look out the window, after the plane’s come through the clouds, and the sun is shining and it looks like you could get out and bounce across the clouds? Well standing on top of that mountain, looking out to one side, the clouds were far below us and they looked like a blanket of cotton wool stretched out to the horizon. On the other side you could see the mountains all the way on the other side of the island, and straight up was brilliant blue sky with a second layer of clouds (snow clouds).
View from the top
After we’d only been up the top for about 15-20 minutes we all started to feel slightly off-key, and one of our tour party even had to sit back in the van with an oxygen mask for a few minutes. So we quickly got our tour guide to take a photo of us in front of the Australian observatory (Gemini) before we all piled in to the bus to head down. We had another ½ hour stop at the information station for lunch and a warm cup of coffee (made for a great hand warmer), before we headed home to the dulcet tones of Daniel’s latest recordings.
We made a quick pit stop at Big Island Candies, where you can buy almost anything chocolate dipped (I even tried chocolate dipped squid). Their specialties are macadamia nut shortbread and chocolate covered macadamia nuts. We went a little nuts (pun intended) buying gifts for family back home, but I’m not sure how much will make it back (sorry mum’s and dad’s)!
We finished the evening sitting around the ship’s main pool area sipping on Mai Tai’s, watching the ships performers crank out song after song of ABBA gold at the FABBA Theme Party before heading into the Skyline Restaurant for dinner then back to our cabin for a well-earned sleep.
On a side note the guy who looks after our cabin is fantastic and each night we found a new animal towel on our bed. They are so cute I thought it was worth posting a couple of photos for you.